It is said the people of the Netherlands have no secrets. This has much truth to it. Many leave the curtains of their homes wide open for the world to see their lives. We learned this in reverse in an "up close and personal" way. First, a bit about the RV/caravan. It's quite different from what the European caravaner is used to seeing. It starts out at 20 feet in length by 5 feet in height, then with a few pushes and pulls it reaches it's live-in size of 27 feet by 8 feet. It's all metal construction had most everyone who saw it curious, along with the California plates and Bruce's newly dyed orange hair, we garnered quite a bit of attention. I realized that our RV had never received a name so we christened her "Paris Hilton" because of all the attention it drew and of course the unlimited supply of humor that the name would supply us with.
When we arrived at the Campsite in Antwerp and immediately noticed the stares. Twenty or so people watched in amazement, bewilderment, and shock as we set up "Paris Hilton". It kinda felt like something out of Stephen King's novel "Children of the Corn". One by one they slowly came over and began to ask questions about Paris Hilton. After answering most of the questions we hurriedly put the curtains up, sometimes even having to close the curtains on the prying eyes standing outside the windows looking at us. Before we could shut the door a neighbor would usually ask to come see the inside. This was a common occurrence at most every campground we have visited. Around 11pm at one campground, I was working on the blog and Bruce was sitting in a chair having a glass of vino when he gasped. I asked "whats wrong"? He said someone is at the window staring in. We opened the door to see who in the world was looking through the window at 11 night. It was two fairly inebriated caravaners curious about what the RV looked like on the inside. They didn't seem to think anything about their actions were in the slightest bit odd or unusual. I think I will be keeping my curtains drawn during this leg of the trip.
AAHHH! Finally we are in Amsterdam. What a difference from our travels so far. The campground is a very young hip happening place with people from all over the world primed for the Amsterdam experience. Everything that is legal in Amsterdam is done in the wide open here. The campsite could have easily been mistaken for a modern Woodstock a continual summer of love. I assure you, Mom, I was only an observer not a participant.
Our campsite was only a 15 minute train ride from the heart of Amsterdam. This worked out perfect. We didn't have to drive, which can be pretty stressful with all the cars, bicycles, and motor bikes zooming by in chaotic streams, not to mention the buses trains and pedestrians criss-crossing the boulevards.
We secured Paris Hilton and jumped on the train. As the train approached the central station, I got the same feeling I had gotten as a teen when I first snuck away from home and drove to New Orleans. I finally made it to this mythical, magical, most liberal place on earth. We departed the train and immediately got swept up into the groove of the city. Amsterdam has such great offerings. The Anne Frank museum being my favorite. You take a self-paced tour through the house where 14 year old Ann and her family hid from the Nazis. Her diary is on display and reading it puts you in such a somber mode. It's a mode of reflection on many things but mainly mans inhumanity to man. If you haven't read the Diary of Anne Frank you should pick up a copy. It captures so well what it must have been like for a young child to be in hiding during the Nazi Occupation.
Before heading into the city we stopped at the campsites pastry counter. I ordered a pastry called an apple flip. A flip is a triangle shaped sugar coated pastry filled with apples and cinnamon. The lady behind the counter told me I would be back every morning and order more. I smiled and thought I doubt it. For six mornings straight I was the first in line awaiting my apple flip. I went so far as to find out what time they came out of the oven so I could have them hot and fresh. This was the highlight of my culinary experience in Amsterdam. A simple pastry from an unassuming pastry shop.
To get a lay of the city, we decided to take a canal boat trip. These trips can be as little as 7euro or as high as 50euro depending on the type of experience your looking for. Being budget minded the 7euro excursion worked just fine. The tour starts out along the main canal and takes you through the history of Amsterdam. Only Venice by gondola can top this type of experience. Many if not most, of the buildings near the canals are leaning from hundreds of years of sitting on swampland. The sight of this alone gives Amsterdam an Alice in Wonderland vibe. As you go further through the canals, you are almost transported to another time. Grand mansions tower above you and incredible boat houses each decorated with beautiful plants and colors are docked along the edges of the canals. This scenery has me thinking of WINE. I'm ready to get off this boat and check out the local wine scene.
Amsterdam is a Bier drinking city. It's home to Heineken Bier. We met a nice couple while waiting in line at the Anne Frank museum, Anne Marie and John from Portland. They told us what a good time they had at the Heineken brewery. With that in mind, the next day I hopped on the train and went to the brewery. The visit was single-handedly the best tour I had ever been on. It's called "The Heineken Experience" and for only 10 euros it's a must-do tour for anyone visiting Amsterdam. As you walk in, you are given 3 beer tokens and a gift token. As you proceed on the tour, you learn the history of Heineken, how bier is made, and you even get to chat with the Bier maker and taste fresh brewed, (warm) samples of his brew. It was a very "hands on" interactive experience. The best part is there are bars set up along the way so you can use your tokens for glasses of bier. I will say most everyone was feeling good and it was an atmosphere of easy going fun.
We are still in Amsterdam. What was supposed to be a 4-day trip has turned into a 7-day trip. It's great traveling in an alternative fashion for the flexibility alone. It's quite a cool feeling knowing that you can move on to the next adventure at your own pace.
I finally made it around to a wine bar aptly named, LUST. This was an awesome find and the knowledgeable staff made it an even better experience. We sat inside with a great view of happenings along the street. Upon opening the wine menu, the first thing to jump out at me was a Grüner Veltliner, my favorite type of white wine.
About Grüner Veltliner: [GROO-ner FELT-lih-ner] Grüner Veltliner is the most commonly planted vine variety in Austria. G.V's are dry wines. They have a very aromatic nose and potent fruit. Think spicy peaches. I think Riesling drinkers will find G.V's very much to their liking. Even a die-hard Chardonnay fan should switch gears and try one. G.V's are hard to find in the states. I was introduced to my first one almost 2 years ago at SavvyCellar. It seems the Austrians want to keep it all for themselves and I don't blame them one bit.
Our server Braun was extremely knowledgeable on the happenings in the European wine world. I've noticed that in every city that we visited, the wine of choice has been a rosé. I began a discussion with Braun about this. He stated that for the last 5 years it's been the “in and trendy” wine but until recently it hadn't been taken serious on a large scale. Now that there are plenty of quality rosés available from respected producers, the year of the rosé has arrived. For those who have a timidity about a rosé, now is the time to lose it. If you're a red wine drinker, the summer heat can make downing your fav' big red a little tough. A nice rosé can give you the complexity you long for but the nice chill you need to cut the heat. Many rosés have an alcohol content in the 12-12.5% range so they go great with a light summer meal, a cookout, or my favorite, a picnic. They are not overpowering and with the lower alcohol content you can find your favorite sunny spot and sip all day long without worrying about overdoing it.
Today is our last day in Amsterdam. I think it will be anyway. Every place I visited seems to come together in a great finale on the last day. Amsterdam was no exception. From my first sight of Amsterdam I knew I liked this place. It's a wonderous, vibrant city steeped in history and culture. The history, canals, coffee shops, and the red light district immediately impress upon you that you're "not in Kansas anymore". All the sights and sounds can almost overwhelm the senses, making it a city that takes time to get to know. Once you've left the more crowded central areas and begin to explore the neighborhoods and canals, you begin to get a feel for what makes this place so special. It's such a great place to get lost in and to wander aimlessly. There is always a canal in sight, beautiful tree lined streets, quiet parks, and friendly neighborhood cafes'. A quiet sophistication kind of envelopes you. The busy, crowded central core is why most visit Amsterdam. That's what has attracted me as well, but once again, as in every place I've visited, the true city opens itself up to those who explore beyond the glossy tourist guides.
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