I had been to Beaune once before and I was anxious to go back and explore this fabled walled city. Beaune for me is the premier Pinot lover's paradise. Wine bars and wine shops are everywhere. This is no exaggeration, there must be 60 within walking distance of one another. You do have to be careful and pick the right ones. This is a tourist destination so a little research is a plus.
I happened upon a great wine tasting spot, “Magnum”. The wine bar was small, but what it lacked in size it more than made up in quality and ambiance. We sat in the comfortable outdoor seating area facing the steady stream of relaxed visitors in search of their “Burgundy experience.”Being only a 5 minute bike ride into the heart of Beaune, makes the Beaune experience so much better. I can load up on my favorite Burgundy's and bike them back to the campsite and reload.
Everyone has that special wine moment where they get it. I had my major moment back in 1997. It was a 1994 Sanford Pinot Noir. I remember it like it was yesterday. It smelled of cherry, wet earth and mushrooms. The dark fruits and the layers of flavor, made me think “wow this is pleasurable, there is something to this wine drinking thing”. Ever since that day I have had a love affair with Pinot Noir. Sometimes I would fall instantly for a certain wine or producer, and later fall out of love. That 94 Sanford Pinot always stayed in my subconscious. The passion I felt for other Pinots was always fleeting. I've spent years trying to revisit that magical moment.
Well fortunately for me I have had another great wine moment! Quite by chance I walked past a wine bar in Beaune, this is easy to do considering there are so many located throughout the village. As I passed by the store something drew me back. Was it the voice of Bacchus? I followed the voice and sat down in the outdoor seating area and after reviewing the wine list I ordered a glass of 2004 Nuits St Georges Mugnier. The moment I saw the light ruby/garnet color I was drawn in. As I swirled the wine around in my glass, the esters began to escape in a seductive dance. Once my nose was in the glass I was held captive. I didn't dare taste this wine. For 20 minutes I swirled. The smell of cherries was rich and lush but not overpowering, much like a cherry slowly ripening under my very nose. The wine had layers of smells, mushrooms, pepper, and a bit of plumminess.
Maybe it's because I'm in Burgundy, with the sun shining and 14th century architecture all around me that I'm feeling this wine so. I swirled one more time and tasted. I may never be the same. The mouth feel alone had me anticipating things to come. Its no exaggeration when I say my heart began to pound.
I smiled broadly and instantly found our server Maurice, so I could share my excitement. He was as happy as I was to hear the news, we chatted extensively about Burgundy. The oh so subtle differences between one plot of land and another. I always believed in terrior, but never to the extent that many Franco files do. I know have to change my thinking. A time, a place, a piece of land, hundreds upon hundreds of years of careful study of the land, the climate the soil, I am now a true believer. I'm thankful that the first expression of terior that I fell for came from my beloved California wine country. The Sanford 94 Pinot set me on this journey.
While enjoying another glass of Burgundy we met a nice couple from the Netherlands. Niels and Masja, Masja was a bit camera shy. Of course I am ever so curious about what people are drinking , what wines they like and how they became interested in wine. Our conversation actually turned to Primivito Aka Zinfandel. Niels enjoyed the spiciness and the fruit forward jammyness of the Primivito. Think back to your first time. The first time a wine made you stand up and take notice. Eventually I will have a forum site where you can post about your “first time”