This morning we left Tuscany for Venice; an exchange of sorts from one beautiful place to another. The GPS stated the trip was to take about 3.5 hours. It's the law that we go no faster than 80km while pulling a caravan. The trip was fairly easy going, with one exception. Every time an 18-wheeler would approach, a vortex would build between us and the truck. Then as the truck would pass, it would almost push us off the road. This route was heavily traveled by truckers so it was at times tense, especially when going through the numerous tunnels.
I was looking forward to the Venetian experience. Having visited three times before, I never tire of the beauty and the engineering feat that is Venice. It's the one place I have visited where words and pictures just can't capture the seductive beauty. Our campsite was situated right on the Adriatic Sea with several of the islands, including Venice, within view. For the first 2 days of our trip, we booked a hotel in the heart of Venice. This made life a bit easier since we wouldn't have to waterbus back and forth to the campsite. We secured the caravan and headed for the water taxi station situated just 300 feet from the campground.
The water taxi ride into Venice, along the Grand Canal (the main drag), is a dreamlike experience with technicolor palaces rising from the sea, towers pointing upwards to the heavens, and grand cathedrals chiming their welcoming bells. Byzantine, Gothic, and Baroque, all these architectural styles exist side by side in a plethora of opulence. Yeah, I said plethora of opulence. I'm sure I will receive a few comments on that one.
There may be no better place to get lost in than Venice. With it's narrow streets and bridges, you can wander your afternoons away. There are many recognizable sites that everyone who visits must see. Piazza San Marco, Basilica San Marco, The Rial ti Bridge, and the list goes on and on. I like to start the day with the major attractions and then slowly work my way away from the crowds and onto the roads or in this case, canals less traveled. It's easy to flee the more crowded areas, turn down a side street, and find your own little experience. In an instant, you can find yourself alone on a bridge as gondolas quietly sail by below you and if you're lucky, the sound of the gondolier's operatic voices can be heard echoing through the canals.
It has since become one of my favorite past times to visit Piazza San Marco to feed the pigeons. Generally, you think of pigeons as pests but they somehow bring the square to life. For 1 euro you can purchase a bag of corn to feed the pigeons and within a second, you become part of Alfred Hitchcock's “The Birds”. These pigeons don't take "no" for an answer. Sometimes as many as 12 pigeons would perch themselves on you, awaiting their feed. I got a kick out of putting bird feed on top of Dave's unsuspecting head! This made me and the pigeons happy. After the pigeon episode, I used enough anti-bacterial soap to bathe all of Venice.
Venice is a food lovers' dream, even for the budget minded. Although it has it's share of over-priced and fine dining excursions, if you step away from the heavily traveled tourist areas, you can find very reasonably priced pasta dishes, sandwiches, and oh yeah, bruschetta! Venice like no other place, screams explore me, distant yourself from the crowds, you're only blocks away from your own Venetian experience.
Bottle of the Night: 2001 Renzo Marina Riserva, A very nice Chianti. Light to medium in color. On the nose it had cherries and even a bit of floral. On the palate cherry liqueur, red liquorish, and sour cherries. As with many Sangioveses based wines, it was acidic but, the wine maker integrated the acidity with the other wine components to make a well balanced wine.
After a very stormy yesterday, today was the polar opposite. We decided to spend one more day in Venice. Just as in every last day in every city we visited, things just seemed to come together. The sun warmed the air and there was a blanket of blue skies. After arriving via the Grand Canal, we departed our taxi on the furthest side of Venice, which is situated well away from the touristed areas. This was a great call. The quietness of the back streets and canals has a calming effect. You find yourself in the mood to meander through the streets and canals. In my case, I deliberately tried to get lost and did a pretty good job of it. To be lost in Venice, isn't a tense or unsure feeling but more a feeling of freedom. The unfamiliar canals and bridges often lead you to gems that you won't find in the basic tourist guides. We found Piazzas, markets, cathedrals, and courtyards we would have never visited were it not for 'taking the road less traveled'.
In actuality, you can't get too lost in Venice - all roads eventually lead you towards Piazza San Marco. There were a few things I planned on doing near the piazza, chiefly a trip to Harry's Bar. Harry's is according to some, where the Bellini was invented. The famous little bar has been frequented by the likes of Ernest Hemingway and Orson Wells to name a few. If it's good enough for Ernest, it's good enough for me. My experience was quite typical I suspect. We entered Harry's and took a seat at the bar. The first thing you notice is how sharply dressed the staff is, dressed in white suits and black ties. It's a very friendly and welcoming environment reminiscent of a Humphrey Bogart movie set. We ordered two Bellinis and watched as our talented bartender went to work. The care that was taken to prepare and present the drink, along with the freshness of the ingredients, made the Bellinis memorable but what really made it memorable was the check. One 6 oz. Bellini, $18.00 US dollars! Can you say drink real slow? Next time I will skip the treasured Harry's experience, take my own advice and search out a less famed $5 dollar Bellini off the beaten path.
Bellini: Although there are many variations, the main ingredients are Prosecco and white peach juice. The fresher the peach juice the better the Bellini will taste. In my home recipe, I use a bit of peach schnapps for good measure. No matter what recipe you use for your home version, be sure to use Prosecco (Italian sparkling wine). It makes all the difference in the world. Bellinis make a great Sunday brunch replacement for mimosas.
Our last stop was the Palazzo Ducale. The palace done in beautiful pink marble, housed Venice's government, it's senate, a torture chamber, and a prison - all under one happy roof. The most interesting part of the Palazzo was the prison. There was a bridge connecting the prison to the death chamber. As the prisoners crossed the bridge, they got their last view of the outside world before being put to death. The bridge was nicknamed, "The Bridge of Sighs". As I walked this same bridge, I could almost hear the sighing.
My favorite part of Venice has always been the Aqua Alta. Spring and fall tides flood low lying parts of the city including Piazza San Marco. The city has to put elevated walkways up so the streets can be traversed without you getting your shoes soaked. I prefer to walk in the water and forget the temporary bridges. For me it enhances the experience.
I Think we will be heading back to Tuscany tomorrow. We didn't get to spend time in Florence earlier in the month and Florence comes highly recommended, so we're gonna head back south.
©2007 EasyOnThePalate.com More about Winston | Thank you's | Contact us | Other great sites: Savvy Cellar